Who invented the watch, and what did the first one look like?
The History of the World's First Watch
The history of the world’s first wristwatch is closely tied to the evolution of mechanical clocks, which marked a major advance in the measurement of time. Before the advent of portable watches, clocks existed in larger, stationary forms, such as tower clocks and table clocks. It was during the 16th century, at the height of the Renaissance, that watchmaking technology made it possible to create the first portable watches.
The first mechanical clocks appeared in Europe during the 13th century, but it took several centuries before the technology was miniaturized enough to make portable watches possible. The transformation of large clocks into portable objects was made possible by technological advances in the manufacture of smaller, more precise mechanisms, as well as by the invention of the mainspring (which replaced the weights used in clocks).
The First Watch: Peter Henlein and the Nuremberg Egg
The invention of the first watch is generally attributed to Peter Henlein, a German clockmaker from the city of Nuremberg. In the early 16th century, between 1505 and 1510, Henlein designed what is often considered the first portable mechanical watch, known asa “pocket watch” orthe “Nuremberg Egg”(due to its egg-shaped form).
These early pocket watches were quite bulky by modern standards, and more decorative than accurate. They could fit in a pocket or be worn as a pendant around the neck. Their accuracy was still very limited—often with deviations of several hours a day—but they represented a revolutionary advance in the portability of timekeeping.
Peter Henlein’s watches used a mainspring to power the mechanism rather than weights, which made them smaller and more portable. As the spring unwound slowly, it drove the gears to turn the hands, thereby displaying the time on a rudimentary dial. However, these early watches generally had only a single hand to indicate the hours, since minute-level accuracy was not yet achievable.
The Story of Peter Henlein
Little is known about Peter Henlein’s early life, but he began his career as a locksmith in Nuremberg, a city then renowned for its artistic and technological vitality. At that time, clockmakers often came from related trades, such as locksmithing, because clockmaking required fine metalworking skills. Henlein learned to master the manufacture of complex mechanisms and to miniaturize the components necessary for the clocks to function.
In the 1500s, Peter Henlein gained recognition for his talent and ability to create increasingly smaller and more precise mechanisms. He quickly specialized in the manufacture of portable clocks, a revolutionary concept at a time when massive, weight-driven, stationary clocks were the norm.
Between 1505 and 1510, Peter Henlein created what is often considered the first portable mechanical watch, known as the “Nuremberg Egg.” This watch, so named because of its egg-shaped form, was a small case that could be carried in a pocket or worn as a pendant. The mechanism relied on a mainspring rather than weights, making it possible to miniaturize the movement and make the watch portable.
Although these early watches were still inaccurate (with errors of several hours a day), they represented a true revolution. They allowed nobles and wealthy merchants to carry a way to tell the time with them—something that had previously been impossible with church or table clocks.
The invention of the mainspring by Henlein and other craftsmen of his time made it possible to extend the running time of portable timepieces. Peter Henlein’s first watches featured brass cases with decorative engravings—often highly ornate—which made these watches true luxury items.
Henlein also contributed to improvements in watch dials and hands. Although the earliest watches had only a single hand to indicate the hours, they represented a giant leap forward in the miniaturization of watch mechanisms. These watches could run for about 40 hours after being wound, thanks to the balance spring, which slowly released energy to power the movement.
His work notably influenced the evolution of pocket watches, which grew in popularity over the following centuries. He laid the groundwork for modern watchmaking, helping to create a world in which individuality and portability in timepieces became possible.
The city of Nuremberg still honors his memory with monuments and historical references to his achievements. Henlein is not only remembered as one of the greatest craftsmen of his time, but he is also considered one of the inventors who contributed most to the evolution of modern watchmaking.
The Evolution of Watches to the Present Day
Over the decades, pocket watches became more refined. During the 17th and 18th centuries, significant advances were made in the manufacture of mechanical movements, improving the accuracy and size of the watches. Watchmakers began incorporating minute hands, more precise dials, and decorative elements such as engravings and precious stones.
It wasn’t until the 19th century that pocket watches gradually became smaller and more affordable, thanks to mass production that began primarily in Switzerland and the United States. The true revolution came at the beginning of the 20th century with the invention of the wristwatch, popularized in particular by brands such as Cartier, Patek Philippe, and Rolex.
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