Three-quarters gold, one-quarter copper
Nothing about gold is pink. Pure gold is yellow—a deep, slightly orange-tinged yellow—that is almost never worn because it is too soft for everyday jewelry. To make it harder, goldsmiths alloy it with other metals, and it is this mixture that determines its color.
In 18-karat rose gold, fine gold accounts for 75 percent of the total. The remaining quarter is mostly copper, with a pinch of silver. Add copper and the metal turns reddish; remove some, and it returns to a yellow hue. In between, there is a whole range, from very pale rose gold to red gold.
So rose gold isn't a dye applied to gold. It's gold that has been mixed with copper and has taken on its color.
| Alloy | What Adds Up to Gold | The shade |
|---|---|---|
| 18-karat yellow gold | Silver and copper in roughly equal proportions | Classic Yellow |
| 18-karat rose gold | Mostly copper, a little silver | Warm pink, soft on the skin |
| 18-karat red gold | Almost entirely copper | Brassy, richer |
| 18-karat white gold | Palladium or silver, often rhodium-plated | Light gray, similar to steel |
For a long time, it was called "Russian gold"
The shade owes its first nickname to 19th-century Russia, where court jewelers had made it their signature. Precious objects from that era often combined several shades of gold, and rose gold held a special place among them—warmer than yellow gold and less cold than white gold.
It made a strong comeback in the 1920s, when rings featuring three intertwined bands combined yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold. It then faded from view for decades, considered too dated. Its true return to watches dates back to the 2010s, driven by minimalist models with light-colored dials and mesh bracelets.
Since then, it has gone from being a trend to becoming a classic. It’s the metal color that raises the fewest questions when buying a gift, because it complements almost every skin tone.
On a 200-euro watch, it's not gold
Let’s be clear about this, because product descriptions rarely mention it right away. For under 500 euros, a rose gold watch almost always has a steel case. The color comes from a layer just a few microns thick, applied to the metal in a vacuum, which is referred to by three letters: PVD.
It’s not cheating. PVD coating lasts much longer than traditional plating, doesn’t wear off from simple skin contact, and retains its color for years. It’s also what makes it possible to offer rose gold at the price of stainless steel. What you need to know is that a sharp impact or repeated friction against a hard surface can scratch it, revealing the stainless steel underneath.
| Solid rose gold | Rose gold-plated | Rose gold PVD-coated steel | |
|---|---|---|---|
| What It Is | The entire case is made of 18-karat gold | A layer of gold on a base metal | A colored coating applied to steel under vacuum |
| Price of a watch | Several thousand euros | A few hundred euros | From less than 100 to a few hundred euros |
| Durability | Don't change colors | May wear at the corners | Durable, but may get scratched if struck |
| How to Recognize It | Hallmark on the case | Gold-plated or microns of gold | Marked "PVD" or "rose-gold-plated steel" |
What to Wear It With
Rose gold is the most versatile of the three metals. Its warm hue flatters both fair and olive skin tones, whereas yellow gold can make a pale complexion look harsh and white gold can make a golden complexion look cool.
When it comes to watch straps, he likes cognac and burgundy leather, which enhance its warmth, and navy blue, which makes it stand out by contrast. A Milanese mesh strap in the same shade creates a monochromatic, more dressy look that can be worn like a piece of jewelry.
And it works. A rose gold watch next to a silver bracelet doesn’t clash, as long as one color dominates the other. That’s exactly what two-tone watches do—they combine two metals on the same bracelet.
Our Pink Gold Selection
Seven watches, ranging from smartwatches to automatic watches with day-night discs. They all have rose gold cases, and that’s the only thing they have in common.
Charlie Paris
Initial 36 Day/Night Aventurine
525,00 €
An aventurine sky studded with sparkles, and a disc that shifts from day to night. Automatic movement.
Charlie Paris
Initial 36 Open Heart Day/Night
495,00 €
The balance wheel is visible on the dial, with the day/night disc above it.
Pink October at the Club
Every October, the Pink October campaign raises awareness about the importance of breast cancer screening. In France, organized screening is offered every two years to women ages 50 to 74. We wanted to do our part.
This year, every order counts. Full details about the campaign are on this page.
For every order of at least €99 placed on clubdelamontre.com from October 9 to 31, 2026, Club de la Montre will donate €5 to breast cancer research. The €99 threshold applies to the price of the items, before any discount codes and excluding shipping costs. The total amount and the beneficiary organization will be announced in early November.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is rose gold?
An alloy of gold, copper, and a small amount of silver. In 18-karat gold, fine gold accounts for 75% of the weight, and it is the proportion of copper in the remaining 25% that gives it its rosy hue. The more copper there is, the more reddish the metal appears.
Is a rose-gold watch that costs less than 500 euros actually made of gold?
Almost never. The case is made of steel, coated with a thin, colored layer applied via vacuum deposition—a process referred to as PVD in the product specifications. The color is the same, but there is no solid gold underneath. This information is listed in the specifications, under the “Case” section.
Does rose gold PVD wear out over time?
It withstands daily wear and tear well, better than traditional plating. However, a direct impact or repeated friction against a hard surface can scratch the coating and expose the steel underneath. The most vulnerable areas are the corners of the case and the clasp.
How do you care for a rose gold watch?
A soft, dry cloth is all you need for daily cleaning. Avoid abrasive products, alcohol, and perfume sprayed directly onto the case. For a Milanese mesh bracelet, use a soft-bristled toothbrush and a little lukewarm water to remove any debris lodged between the links.
Can you wear rose gold with silver jewelry?
Yes. Rose gold is the most versatile of the yellow metals, because its warm hue remains soft. A silver bracelet worn next to a rose gold watch doesn’t clash, as long as one color dominates—usually that of the watch.
What is the Club de la Montre’s “Pink October” campaign?
From October 9 to 31, 2026, Club de la Montre will donate €5 to breast cancer research for every order of at least €99. The threshold is based on the price of the items before any discount codes are applied and excludes shipping costs. The total amount raised and the beneficiary organization will be announced in early November.