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The rectangular watch—the one that nine out of ten men don't have

A man in a gray suit adjusting his tie, with a rectangular gold watch on his wrist

In summary: Club de la Montre is a French watch retailer that has sold more than 3,000 watches since 1968. The rectangular watch is the rarest shape on the market: in our current catalog, there are 888 round cases compared to just 165 rectangular ones, 114 tonneau-shaped ones, and 100 square ones. That is precisely what makes it remarkable. Our top pick to start with: the gold Casio Vintage Iconic for 59.90 euros. For those looking for something more: the automatic LIP Big TV for 498.89 euros, the successor to De Gaulle’s watch.

The round shape has become the standard because it is simple to manufacture: a movement is round, and a round case accommodates it effortlessly. The rectangle, on the other hand, requires design work. You either have to fit a circular movement into a space that isn’t round, or design a movement with a specific shape—something few watchmakers still do. It is a conscious aesthetic choice, never a matter of convenience.

The result: a rectangular watch always stands out, even when it’s understated. Here’s how to choose one, what options are available, and nine verified models available for order on August 25, 2026, ranging from 59.90 to 498.89 euros.

Why the Rectangular Shape Makes All the Difference

A rectangular case follows the natural line of the arm rather than running counter to it. It elongates the wrist, whereas a round case of the same size makes it appear wider. This is why it is particularly flattering on slender wrists, and why it became a staple of formal wear from the 1920s through the 1970s.

The other benefit is practical: for the same case diameter, a rectangular watch is slimmer. It fits under a shirt sleeve without catching on it, which explains its return to the world of the office and formal occasions. If you’re interested in this topic, our guide to dress watches details the four criteria to consider.

Three vintage watches with rectangular cases, laid flat next to a pair of glasses

Rectangular, square, barrel-shaped: three similar shapes that are often confused, and that are worn differently.

Rectangle, square, barrel: How to Tell Them Apart

FormWhat Sets It ApartIn the catalog
RectangularTaller than it is wide, straight lines, formal style165 designs
CarreEven proportions, more graphic, very 1970s100 designs
BarrelRectangle with curved sides, fits the wrist better114 models
RoundThe gold standard, across all eras888 models

The barrel shape is the most comfortable compromise: it retains the vertical lines of a rectangle, but its curved sides follow the contour of the wrist. This is the shape to choose for case heights exceeding 42 mm.

Four vintage wines for less than 120 euros

This is where almost all first purchases start. The rectangular case from the 1980s, available in brushed steel or gold-tone, costs less than 120 euros and goes with just about anything. The four models below are in stock.

The rest of the lineup can be found in our Casio section, and our comprehensive Casio guide explains what sets the brand's four product families apart.

A man in a leather jacket and white shirt wearing a watch with a light-colored square case

The square case goes just as well with leather and denim as it does with a suit. That's its strength.

The Square and the Barrel: Moving Beyond Vintage

Once you spend 120 euros, you move away from reissues toward contemporary designs. The square shape takes on a graphic quality, and the barrel shape becomes more enveloping. These are two shapes that major round-frame brands almost never offer.

A square watch with a blue digital display worn on a man's wrist

The disc display: a way to tell time that is made possible only by the square shape.

Is a rectangular automatic watch even possible?

This is the most frequently asked question on the subject, and the answer deserves to be clarified. Yes, but such watches are rare, for a simple technical reason: most automatic movements are round. Fitting them into a rectangular case requires either making the case oversized or developing a custom-shaped movement, which is expensive.

In practice, there are two reasonably priced options. The barrel-shaped case, which accommodates a round caliber without wasting space. And the large square case, which allows room for movement while maintaining straight lines.

The LIP Big TV deserves a mention: it’s the 1970s-style television that the Besançon-based brand made famous. Our guide to the LIP collections traces this history, and the LIP section features the available models.

The High-End Rectangular Model

Above 350 euros, we enter the realm of Art Deco: elongated cases, slender numerals, hand-stitched leather. This is where the rectangular shape truly comes into its own, because it ceases to be a retro nod and becomes a design choice.

A man's wrist wearing a watch with a square steel case, facing the sea

Once a certain level of craftsmanship is achieved, the case design becomes the watch's signature feature.

The entire collection is on display in our Michel Herbelin section, and the rest of the men's models can be found in the men's watches category.

How to Choose the Right One

Look at the height, not the width. For a shaped case, the measurement that matters is the height, including the lugs. A rectangle 40 mm high takes up as much space as a circle 40 mm in diameter, even though it appears thinner.

For wrist circumferences under 16 cm, stick to a width of 38 mm or less. The shape already makes the wrist look longer—no need to add to that. Our guide to diameter based on wrist circumference provides the complete method in three measurements.

Leather over steel. A leather strap emphasizes the vertical lines of the case. A steel link bracelet, on the other hand, makes the watch appear wider and detracts from the refined look.

A light-colored dial for a dressy look, a dark one for a casual look. A silver or cream dial is perfect for the office. Black and midnight blue pair best with leather and denim.

Details on the measurements can be found in our wrist-size guide, and information on older models is available in the guide to vintage men's watches.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does a rectangular watch suit everyone?

It flatters slim and medium-sized wrists in particular, because it elongates the line of the arm rather than widening it. For a wide wrist, it’s best to choose a barrel-shaped or large square case, which maintain the right proportions even at heights exceeding 42 mm.

What size should you choose for a men's rectangular watch?

We consider the case height, including the lugs: 33 to 38 mm for a slim wrist, and 38 to 44 mm for wider wrists. The width follows naturally. A rectangular watch always appears slimmer than a round case of equivalent dimensions.

Are there any rectangular automatic watches?

Yes, but the selection remains limited: most automatic movements are round and don’t fit well in a rectangular case. The two viable options are the tonneau case, which accommodates a round movement without wasting space, and the large square case. Prices start at 290 euros.

Rectangular or square—what's the difference?

The rectangle is taller than it is wide and falls into the dress watch category. The square has equal sides, a more graphic look, and a 1970s-inspired design. The barrel is a rectangle with rounded sides, making it more comfortable on a wide wrist.

What kind of watchband goes with a rectangular watch?

Smooth leather is the top choice: it extends the straight lines of the case. Link-style steel bracelets work well on vintage models but make the watch appear wider. NATO straps are best reserved for square, sporty-style cases.

Are rectangular watches out of style?

It's actually the opposite: its rarity is what makes it distinctive. In our current catalog, there are 888 round cases compared to 165 rectangular ones. A watch with an unusual shape stands out precisely because nine out of ten watches do not.

What's the price range for a rectangular men's watch?

Vintage steel watches start at around 60 euros and cover most needs. Between 120 and 300 euros, you get better craftsmanship and a more contemporary design. Above 350 euros, you enter the realm of Art Deco and mechanical watches with distinctive shapes.

Can you wear a rectangular watch every day?

Yes, provided you check the water resistance: many stylish cases are rated for only 30 meters, which rules out swimming. Our water resistance guide explains what each rating actually allows.

For more information on this last point, see our guide to water-resistant watches.

One final note. A rectangular watch is not simply a round watch with its corners cut off: it’s a different challenge altogether, with its own constraints and logic. It requires a design rather than an assembly, which is why it remains rare. Nine out of ten watches are round. The tenth one stands out.

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